The Kerala Trail

Kerala is a beautiful state, set in a narrow strip down the South West Coast of India, with mountains on the eastern side and beach and backwaters all down the western side, which is known as the Malabar Coast. Its mountains have kept it safe from inland invasions and its large coastal area has encouraged seafarers from both within and without, making it culturally very colourful. It is known as the Spice State and if you are a dab hand in the kitchen you'll love the opportunity to gather hoards of cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves and many other wonderful smelling things. Keralan people are extremely friendly and hospitable and the standard of accommodation is generally quite good: simple yet very clean.

Unique in India, Kerala is also a communist state and a state with absolutely no heavy industry and a very high literacy rate. This makes it very clean, green and picturesque and Keralans are fiercely proud of what they call "God's own country". The one drawback of the communism is that there are frequent strikes called "Hartal" and no one is allowed to travel on the road. For this reason we have laid out the trip with quite a few two day stops, in order to have a day in hand - and it livens things up when you're not 100% sure when you can move on to next base!

Laundry facilities will be available at every two-night stop, so don't overpack and do remember that you may well want to pick up local fabrics and clothes. The food at our accommodations is, without exception, excellent - as it is all over Kerala. As with our tours in Goa we will be using 350cc Enfield Bullets. Start getting used to the idea now - it's brakes on the left, gears on the right and they are one up, three down! We will be accompanied by a support vehicle carrying spares, a mad nurse (well, she'd have to be!) with medical equipment, pillions with sore backsides and anyone else who wants to join the party.

We ride in convoy with experienced staff at the front and back of the group, so you can relax and enjoy the view and let us worry about when to fuel up and which road to take! There is a great deal of hill riding on this tour, so we wouldn't recommend it to anyone who doesn't like cornering! The climate is generally tropical and even up in the hills it is very hot during the day time although the temperature can drop dramatically after dark in Kodaikanal and to a lesser degree in the other hill stations. For riding we recommend jeans or combats' with a decent pair of ankle covering boots and on top a T-shirt with a light jacket, which you can remove easily at stops. As ever, helmets are compulsory. Unless specified accommodation on this tour is liable to change, but needless to say it's clean, comfortable and eminently welcoming after a hard day in the saddle.

Support Vehicles

Day 1: Arrive Trivandrum, transfer to Quilon. Arrive early morning at Trivandrum we jump on a bus for a couple of hours up the coast to our base in Quilon (now called Kollam). First off you're introduced to your Enfield and it's particular quirks before being let loose on the road to ensure everyone's happy. In the afternoon you're left to collapse and re charge your batteries in the beautiful backwater resort. Here you can chill by the pool, or jump into the hotel boat and take a cruise over to one of the local quiet beaches.

Day 2: Quilon. A day to explore Quilon, enjoy the peace of the lakeside resort or treat yourself to an Ayurvedic massage. Trips on the lake are also available, but many riders choose simply to get out and soak up the local scenes

Day 3: Quilon to Allepey. A short distance up the coast is Alleppey, and a beautiful backwater resort. The ride is about 120km, taking two or three hours. The resort is very peaceful and a great place to relax with a beer, watching the famous Keralan barges float by.

Day 4: Allepey to Cochin. Heading north the 110km ride takes us to Cochin, where the remainder of the day can be spent wandering this fascinating city, home to the famous Kathakali dance, an impressive fort, the oldest church in India and a 16th century synagogue in 'Jew Town', a bustling trading enclave. The Portuguese-built palace, containing beautiful murals, is another fabulous sight worth taking in.

Day 5: Cochin. From your hotel in Fort Cochin , venture out on another day of exploration. Boat cruises around the harbour – decorated with the famous Chinese cantilever fishing nets – may also afford the opportunity to see dolphins close by. You won't be short of things to do in Cochin, especially if you like to shop for antiques, spices, or textiles – then there are the restaurants, museums, marketplaces and bars.

Day 6: Cochin to Munnar. Inland and up into the hills, covering some 150km in about five or six hours. The ride is fantastic, with long straights passing through shady tropical forest and sweeping bends dipping into verdant valleys. Lofty hairpins then climb ever upwards to reach the stunning emerald tea plantations that tortoise-shell the high Western Ghats around our destination, Munnar. At nearly 1500m above sea-level, anyone who isn't a walrus may choose to don a fleece

Day 7: Munnar to Masinagudi. Another stunning ride, heading higher into the hills across the backbone of Kerala and into the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu. Crossing the plains, we curl up again into the Nilgiri Hills through Conoor, Ketty and Ooty. From Ooty brace yourself for 36 hairpin bends down to our destination. The all-day journey is roughly 300km. Our final destination is a lodge in Masinagudi, on the fringe of Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary.

On the Kerala Trail

Day 8: Masinagudi. A day for rest and exploration. Possible activities include a jeep trip back up to Ooty, the former hot-season retreat for the British Raj's Madras administration. It's a great place to shop for tea, spices (especially peppercorns and cardamom), tribal jewellery and shawls. Around Ooty are tea plantations, fantastic views and up-market eateries. Wildlife treks can also be arranged back at the lodge and are highly recommended as Masinagudi offers the chance to see wild elephant, gaur (the world's biggest wild cattle) and a huge number of other fascinating creatures.

Day 9: Masinagudi to Kodaikanal. Heading down and out of the Nilgiri range, across the plains and up spectacular switchbacks to the Palani Hills. It's another all-day, 300km ride… and among the best in the world. The views will redefine your understanding of the word 'beauty'. This, at 2100m above Southend, is the geographical highpoint of the trip. Unless you happen to be a Geordie, or half penguin, a fleece is a good idea.

Day 10: Kodaikanal. A chance to explore this historically interesting hill station and its surrounds – we'd recommend simply walking around and taking in the vertiginous mountain views and colonial architecture. More 'serious' trekking into virgin forest can also be arranged. The less energetic may prefer a stroll in the botanical gardens, bobbing on the boating lake, or even swinging a club on the golf course.

Day 11: Kodaikanal to Vandanmedu. A day covering about 175km in some six hours. Yet more luscious twisties carry us back to the plains, then up over the Keralan border to descend through lush cardamom plantation and forest to our destination, the tiny village of Vandanmedu. Here, deep in a forested plantation, our luxurious hotel features a swimming pool.

Day 12: Vandanmedu to Thekkady. Days 13 & 14: Quilon. Today's 5-hour, 180km ride takes us back down to Quilon, out of the hills and on to the coast where you can relax in style at the luxurious backwater resort from where we started. Time here is spent reflecting on the adventure just completed, stories are honed, drinks are sunk and you'll probably try to reverse the process of looking like a match stick by tanning the rest of your body other than your face! There's a wonderful seafood restaurant very close to the hotel and with prices so low you can eat like a king whilst feeling on top of the world after a superb 2 weeks in the saddle. It's also time to say goodbye to your Enfield; they may be archaic in comparison to modern Japanese metal, but they have oodles of character and it'll be like saying farewell to a new best friend.

Day 13: Thekkady. A whole day to get stuck into Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, or a bottle of wine. For the former option, there are a huge range of wildlife-based activities; for the latter a tolerable wine list. Should one remain self-supporting come dusk, then even night treks can be arranged in the park.

Day 14: Thekkady to Quilon. Today's seven-hour, 200km ride takes us back down to Quilon on the coast for your final night.

Day 15: Depart Trivandrum. A very early start back to Trivandrum and your flight home to the UK.